Anita
Grossman Solomon's Secret Weapon: Fabric Starch
You can measure twice, cut and stitch with flawless accuracy,
and yet, there are times when your quilt blocks still won't turn out
just right. Author and designer Anita Grossman Solomon specializes
in creating Make
It Simpler® techniques for faster, easier quilting, so we asked
for her advice on the very first step of quilt making - correct
preparation of the fabric. You probably recognize Anita from her
books, or from her appearances on HGTV's Simply Quilts. Now, she
shares her valuable fabric prep tips, centered on the use of fabric
starch, her secret weapon!
Q. Why starch?
A. I piece and quilt by machine and I starch ALL of
my fabric. Starched fabric cuts easily, even when stacked together,
and sews together beautifully. It will hold sharp creases, including
those made by finger pressing. A block made of starched fabric when
pressed during construction will not shrink or become otherwise
distorted. I am convinced that most quilters' accuracy problems stem
from virgin fabric shrinking when first ironed during block
construction rather than from a flawed 1/4" seam. Starched
fabric is already 'pre-distorted' before the first stitch is sewn. I
wouldn't starch if I didn't get tremendous results for my
efforts.
Q. What type of starch do you use?
A. I mix a solution of 50% water and 50% bottled
starch for yardage. I 'cheat' at times by spray starching small
pieces of fabric without prior laundering. These pieces shrink on
contact with a hot iron, which serves the purpose.
Q. How do you launder your fabrics?
A. Prior to starching and pressing the fabric, I
machine wash (warm) and machine dry (hot). I join cut edges of the
folded yardage, adjacent to selvedges, with a machine zigzag or
serger stitch into manageable fabric loops that won't tangle or fray
in the washer or dryer. There are no loose ends to knot together.
Afterwards I trim off the sewn edges and both selvedges.
To starch the yardage: Separate light from dark fabrics to avoid
possible color transfer and bleeding. Stuff the fabric into small
plastic bags and pour starch solution into the bags. The amount of
solution varies with the quantity and type of the fabric. Squeeze
any excess air out of the bag and close it. The goal is to lightly
dampen the fabric but not to soak it. Set the bags in the
refrigerator where, through osmosis, the starch solution will be
distributed throughout the fabric.
After a few hours, remove the fabric from the bag. Roll each
piece individually, return all to the bag and refrigerate again. The
plan is to have any excessively damp fabric come into contact with
dry fabric so that all the fabric will become lightly and evenly
damp but not soaking wet. If the fabric is too dry, add more starch
solution; if the fabric is too wet - add some dry fabric. You'll
soon get the hang of it. The damp fabric will keep for about a week
in the refrigerator. If you don't iron it within a week move the
bags to the freezer to avoid mildew. Defrost in the refrigerator
when the mood hits you. Chilled damp fabric irons very easily.
Hint
Before starching a dried fabric length of one yard or more, tear it
lengthwise down the middle, so each piece is no wider than 22".
It will easily fit it on the ironing board and later on the shelf. I
have never run out of fabric from splitting up the yardage. I've
only made my life easier by not having to deal with a large piece of
fabric. It's comparable to pressing a pillowcase instead of a sheet.
Did you know?
Because starched and pressed fabric is flatter than fabric on the
bolt, you're able to store more of it on your shelves. Hooray! |