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Make it with Marcus Fabrics
Bog-style Coat
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SURFACES
Bog Coat

by Glendora Simonson

Create a wearable work of art with SURFACES prints and this easy, classic design by Glendora Simonson. The Bog Coat is constructed from a rectangle determined by your personal body measurements.

Piece your rectangle by adding strips to make up the required dimensions. Lining your coat provides a finished look; choose your favorite Surfaces print for the lining, which will be visible at the lapels of the coat. Lightweight woven fusible interfacing to the same dimensions as your pieced rectangle.

 
Bog-style Coat Bog-style Coat Close-up of the triple pocket, and loop closure at upper right.
 
FABRIC REQUIREMENTS:
The fabric quantities listed below are generous but will vary depending on the width and length of your personal rectangle. The BOG Coat uses approximately 8 yards of assorted fabrics.

A. V427 114D (2 yards) Cut this directional fabric print into vertical rows. The strips will have uneven widths. The strips with the horizontal orientation will be used in the upper part of the coat and for the sleeves. The strips with vertical orientation will be used in the lower part of the coat.

Cut the following fabrics into 2-inch strips unless otherwise noted. Fabrics marked with an asterisk * should be cut into 1-inch strips.

B. V430 111D (½ yard) C. V430 114D (½ yard)
D. V450 111D (½ yard) E. V450 110D (½ yard)
F. V450 133D (¼ yd)* G. V428 110D (½ yard)
H. V428 114D (1½ yard) I. V449 110D (¼ yard)*
J. V449 133D (¼ yard)*
Lining - V430 110D (or your favorite Surfaces print) (4 yards)
Interfacing (optional) – 3 to 4 yards lightweight woven fusible interfacing.
 
MEASUREMENT:
Accurate measurements are critical to making a coat that fits well. Have someone help you. Take your bust and hip measurement. Using the larger measurement, add 6 to 9 inches for wearing ease. This is the width of your rectangle.

How full do you want your sleeve? 10 inches will give you a narrower sleeve, 12 inches will give you a full sleeve, and 14 inches will give you a very full sleeve. This is your sleeve depth.

How long you want the coat? Hip, mid-thigh, knee, or lower calf? Measure from the base of your neck to the desired length and add your sleeve depth. This is the length of your rectangle.


PIECING DIRECTIONS:

Arrange strips as shown in the diagram below. Note: because your rectangle is personalized to your body measurements, you may or may not need the entire range of fabric strips indicated. Feel free to make adjustments as needed. Use ¼” seam allowances to sew your strips together. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Stay stitch raw edges to minimize raveling and to add stability to curved areas.

CONSTRUCTION:

Layer lining fabric (right side down), interfacing (optional), and pieced fabric rectangle (right side up). Base around the outer edges, through all three layers, and treat as one fabric.

The placement of the shoulder line is determined by the fullness of your sleeve. Measure down from the top edge (10” = narrow, 12” = full, or 14” = very full) and mark this shoulder line. Base through all three layers on this line. Measure the same distance from the shoulder line and mark. The back sleeve section will be cut on the outer forth of the line. The remaining area is the back of the coat. Stay-stitch a scant ¼” away from both sides of the sleeve cut line. Make a cut on the sleeve cut line.


The center front is halfway between the top edge of the rectangle. Mark a vertical line from the front edge to the shoulder line. The back neck opening is 2” from the shoulder line. The front neck opening is 5” from the shoulder line. Mark the neck edge. Stay-stitch a scant ¼” away from both sides of the center front line, and the neck opening. Then cut along the center front line and the neck edge. Try on the garment and make adjustments to the neck edge as necessary.

With right sides together, fold the coat along the shoulder line. Bring the sides forward to the front center and fold along the side fold line. Join the right bodice to the lower right front. Join the left bodice to the lower left front. Then stitch the sleeve sections together.

Press seams open to reduce bulkiness. Finish the seam edges or cover with bias tape.


CLOSURES and FINISHING:

Cut 1 ½ “ strip (approximately one yard). Fold in half lengthwise; press. Fold raw edges in again and press to form the cord. Stitch to close. To form the loops, cut cord into 6-inch lengths. Fold in half and tack the ends together. Attach to the center front edge before applying binding. If using toggle buttons, they can also be applied at this time.

Bind the neck edge, coat front and hem. Tack loops one inch away from front edge.


POCKETS (Small):
  1. Cut two 3½ ” X 7” rectangles of the focus fabric V427 114D selecting desired motifs. Fold in half.
  2. Cut 2” X 10” strips of the following: V450 111D, V430 114D, and V428 114D. Sew strips together and press. Cut this pieced fabric into 5” X 5” squares. Cut two 5” X 5” squares of any additional fabric to line pocket B.
  3. Cut 7” X 14” rectangles of fabric V430 110D. Fold in half.

    To sew the pockets, with right sides together, stitch around the edge, leaving a small opening to turn the pocket. Turn the pocket, slip-stitch opening closed and press.

    Offset pockets as shown. Stitch Pocket A to Pocket B, leaving the top of the pocket open. Stitch B to C, also leaving the top of the pocket open. Then stitch the entire pocket unit to front of the coat where the bodice is joined to the lower front.

POCKETS (Large):
  1. Cut two 3½ ” X 7” rectangles of the focus fabric V427 114D selecting desired motifs. Fold in half.
  2. Cut 2 ½” X 13” strips of the following fabrics: V450 111D, V430 114D, and V428 114D. Sew strips together and press. Cut this pieced fabric into 6 ½” X 6 ½” squares. Cut two 6 ½” X 6 ½” squares of any additional fabric to line pocket D.
  3. Cut two 8 ½” X 17” rectangles of V430 110D. Fold in half.

    Assemble in the same manner as the smaller pockets. Offset pockets as shown. Stitch Pocket A to Pocket D, leaving the top of the pocket open. Stitch D to E, also leaving the pocket open. Then stitch the entire pocket unit to front of the coat. Position the large pockets so that your hands rest comfortably in them.

    Accent the pockets with coordinating buttons if desired.
 
 
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